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The coffee plant originates from Africa’s
Horn, specifically from Ethiopia, where even nowadays it grows wild.
However, it was in Arabia that the diffusion and spreading of the
culture and consumption of coffee began.
A legend exists that tells the way in which a group
of Sudanese slaves, in transit to Yemen, acquired some coffee berries
to help them through the rough trip. These berries were probably
the first to be introduced to Ancient Arabia.
Some say that coffee culture started in Yemen in
575 d.C. but there are no doubts that in the 15th century it was
highly developed in the region, and it was from here that coffee
started its long journey around the World.
In the 17th century, French, Italian and Dutch
merchants competed among themselves to obtain coffee seedlings for
subsequent introduction into their overseas colonies. In 1616, the
Dutch managed to obtain the highly desired plant that was taken
from Mocha to the Netherlands. In 1658, they started coffee culture
in Sri Lanka.
One of the prominent figures in coffee’s
history was Amsterdam’s mayor, Nicolas Witson. In 1696, Witson
suggested to a Malabar commander that he should take coffee seeds
to Java, a Dutch possession of the time. These were planted at the
Kedawoeng plantation in Batavia. Unfortunately a flood destroyed
the plantation. In 1699, at a second attempt, Henricus Zwaaydecroon
took cuttings from Malabar to Java, where they were transplanted
with great success, thus starting the first European plantation.
The profits that were produced after a short while quickly encouraged
other colonists.
In 1714, a coffee plant one and a half metres high
was sent from Amsterdam to Louis XIV. This coffee seedling, then
planted at the Paris Garden of Plants, has been identified as the
predecessor of the first coffee plants that were cultivated in most
of the French colonies in Central and South America, Caribbean and
Bourbon Island.
Coffee’s trip to the West
and the East
In 1718, the Dutch took coffee plants to Surinam, in the Northeast
coast of South America, which adapted so well that soon this zone
of the continent was transformed into coffee’s World centre.
After a short while, the first plantation was established in Pará
(Brazil), with plants from the French Guiana. These were followed
by a different variety from Goa, which was planted in the outskirts
of Rio de Janeiro.
In 1730, the British introduced the coffee plant
to Jamaica, beginning the long history of the Jamaican “Blue
Mountain” coffee. Between 1750 and 1760, coffee started being
cultivated in Guatemala. In 1779, Don Francisco Xavier Navarro transported
some plants from Cuba to Costa Rica and, in 1790, the first coffee
plants were planted in Mexico. In 1825, seeds were taken from a
plantation in the outskirts of Rio de Janeiro to Hawaii.
In 1887, the French established a plantation in
Tonquim (Vietnam) and in 1896, the first coffee seedlings were planted
in Australia.
The secret that the Arabs had so jealously kept,
and for so long, was now known throughout the World.
The first coffee houses
It was at Mecca that the first coffee houses appeared, known by
the name of “Kaveh Kanes”, and although their objective,
originally, was of a religious nature, they were quickly transformed
into centres of chess, gossip, song, dance and music. From Mecca
the idea spread to Aden, Medina and Cairo.
At first glance, it is not easy to understand the
reason why coffee became so explosively popular in the Middle East
and in Europe. Before coffee appeared, there were practically no
places where a gratifying and relatively inexpensive drink could
be enjoyed, in a pleasant environment.
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